WEBVTT

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The wind pushes, and the steppe moves before
it.

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Clouds sweep overhead, the short grass bends,
and the only fixed points in the rolling landscape

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are a snowcapped mountain and the distant
silhouette of Mren cathedral.

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As you walk a lonely hour from the nearest
village, and wind whirls dust through the

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whispering grass, details of the cathedral
become visible: the conical tower, a lichen-spotted

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roof, empty windows.

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At last, clambering over the ruins that surround
the church, you step inside.

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Light spills through a collapsed wall, illuminating
a floor torn apart by treasure hunters.

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Faded figures of Christ and the prophets gaze
down on the naked apse.

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Over one of the side doors is a sculpted panel.

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Although the stone is weathered, two figures
are still visible, standing on either side

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of a crucifix.

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It’s far from obvious now, but fourteen
centuries ago, when the church was new, few

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would have mistaken its meaning.

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This relief almost certainly commemorates
March 21, 630, the day the Roman emperor Heraclius

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formally returned the True Cross, the most
sacred of all Christian relics, to the Church

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of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem.

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The restoration of the True Cross put a symbolic
close to a war that had lasted a generation

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and come very close to destroying the Roman
Empire.

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Heraclius had won that war with a series of
daring campaigns launched from the high steppes

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of Armenia – not far from the place where,
just after the war’s end, an Armenian prince

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built Mren Cathedral to celebrate his part
in the victory.

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Mren Cathedral was built near the ancient
world’s most contested boundary: the frontier

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between the Roman and Persian empires.

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For seven centuries, beginning with the great
conquests of Pompey, the eastern edge of the

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Roman world ran from the Armenian plateau
to the Arabian Desert.

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The most hotly contested part of this frontier
was always the center, where it bisected the

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fertile plains of northern Mesopotamia.

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But in times of war, any section of the thousand-mile
border might become the center of a major

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conflict.

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Many of the wars between the Persians and
Romans devolved into sieges of the fortress-cities

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guarding the Mesopotamian frontier.

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Otherwise, conflicts tended to consist of
raids and counter-raids, back and forth, century

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after century, none really changing, or really
expected to change, a balance of power that

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seemed settled in the natural order of things.

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Then, at the end of the sixth century, that
balance was shattered forever.

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Before we begin the story of the cataclysmic
final war between Rome and Persia, a word

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Back to the Roman frontier.

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One September morning in the year 590, the
Roman sentries at Circesium, a border fort

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in northern Mesopotamia, were startled to
see a group of Persians in court dress galloping

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from the east.

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The riders drew up beneath the gates; and
their leader, a man of about twenty, called

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up in passable Greek, asking for an audience
with the commanding officer.

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When the gates were opened, the young Persian
revealed that he was Khosrow, the newly-crowned

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King of Persia, and that he was fleeing a
palace coup.

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The commander at Circesium sent the refugee
king and his retainers to general headquarters

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in nearby Hierapolis.

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From there, Khosrow dispatched a delegation
to Emperor Maurice, promising generous territorial

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concessions in exchange for Roman aid.

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Maurice agreed; and the following spring,
Roman forces flooded into Persia, seizing

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the capital and decisively defeating the rebels.

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Khosrow was re-installed as king.

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Then, in 602, Maurice was deposed in a mutiny.

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The usurper, Phocas, executed the emperor
and his six sons, displaying their heads in

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Constantinople’s main forum.

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There were rumors, however, that Theodosius,
Maurice’s eldest son and heir, had escaped

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by bribing the executioner; and a few weeks
later, a man claiming to be Theodosius appeared

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at the Persian court.

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certainly aware that the real Theodosius was
dead, Khosrow launched a massive attack on

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the Roman frontier, ostensibly to restore
the rightful emperor.

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In a series of grueling sieges, the Persians
seized one after another of the Mesopotamian

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fortress-cities, breaking through the inmost
line of defenses just as the Romans plunged

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into a civil war.

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The Roman governor of Africa had raised the
standard of rebellion against Phocas, and

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sent a fleet under his son Heraclius to Constantinople.

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After gaining the allegiance of Egypt, Heraclius
sailed on to the capital and personally beheaded

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Phocas.

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He was crowned emperor shortly afterward.

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Taking advantage of the chaos at Constantinople,
Khosrow occupied territory far inside the

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old frontier.

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Antioch fell, followed by Damascus.

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Heraclius, who had been trying to shore up
the collapsing Danube frontier, marched to

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Syria at the head of the largest army he could
scrape together.

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His ill-trained troops, however, were defeated,
and he was forced to retreat.

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In 614, after a brief siege, the Persians
took Jerusalem, burned most of the city’s

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churches, and captured the True Cross.

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The loss of this relic, revered throughout
the Empire as the instrument of Christ’s

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Passion, was a serious blow to Roman morale,
especially after the Cross was carried back

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to the Persian capital, and installed in the
private chapel of Khosrow’s Christian wife

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Shirin.

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As one Persian army began to conquer Egypt,
another marched across Anatolia to the Asian

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suburbs of Constantinople.

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Desperate to end the war, Heraclius attempted
to negotiate with Khosrow, promising dramatic

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territorial concessions if the Persian forces
would withdraw.

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By this point, however, Khosrow had achieved
too much to return to the old status quo.

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Syria, Palestine, and Egypt were annexed to
the Persian Empire, and a Persian camp was

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established across the Bosporus from Constantinople.

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In the meantime, the Avars and Slavs swept
over the Danube, and occupied most of the

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Balkans and Greece.

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Little remained of the Roman Empire.

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Heraclius, however, continued to fight.

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Melting down the gold and silver plate of
Constantinople’s churches to pay his soldiers,

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he reorganized Rome’s last army, supplementing
the usual heavy infantry with brigades of

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archers and light cavalry for fast-moving
skirmishes.

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With this force, he began to attack the Persian
armies in Anatolia, and scored a series of

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minor victories.

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After outlasting a Persian counter-attack
on Constantinople, he made the bold decision

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to base his army in and around Armenia, where
he could disrupt enemy troop movements and

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launch raids into the Persian heartland.

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This strategy proved remarkably successful.

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From bases in Armenia and the Caucuses, Heraclius
attacked cities throughout northern Mesopotamia,

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forcing the Persians to withdraw troops from
the conquered territories and engage with

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him.

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After Heraclius inflicted serious defeats
on Persia’s two best generals, Khosrow ordered

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a massive assault on Constantinople, knowing
that the Roman Empire would collapse if the

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city was taken.

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Heraclius managed to crush one of the Persian
armies marching on the capital.

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The other, however, eluded him, and joined
a colossal force of Avars and Slavs in a coordinated

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attack on the Roman capital.

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The Roman navy managed to keep the Persians
on the Asian side of the Bosporus, sinking

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the fleet of dugout canoes the Avars sent
to bring their allies across.

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On the European side, 80,000 men hurled themselves
against the fortifications.

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But the city’s towering triple walls held,
and every assault was repulsed.

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After six weeks, the Slavs and Avars retreated
in disorder, and the Persians withdrew to

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their camp.

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Enraged, Khosrow ordered the execution of
Shahrbaraz, the Persian general responsible

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for coordinating the siege.

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Heraclius, however, managed to intercept the
messenger, and forwarded the death warrant

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to Shahrbaraz with his compliments, suggesting
that the Persian general might find it expedient

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to switch sides.

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Shahrbaraz did so, and withdrew his entire
army to Syria.

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Having neutralized Khosrow’s best general,
Heraclius resumed his offensive, allying himself

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with the nomadic Khazars to ravage Persian
territory.

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On a foggy morning in December 627, near the
ruins of Nineveh, he encountered the largest

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remaining Persian army.

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The ensuing battle was savage – supposedly,
Heraclius killed the enemy general in single

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combat – but the Romans were victorious.

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The next day, Heraclius marched on the now
undefended Persian capital.

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When Khosrow refused to negotiate a peace,
he was deposed and executed by his nobles,

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who immediately began talks to end the war.

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The frontier was restored to its original
place, all Persian troops were recalled home,

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and Heraclius began a triumphal march back
to Constantinople.

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Along the way, he stopped in Armenia, where
he spent a few weeks receiving the submission

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of the local nobles.

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As he marched homeward, Heraclius passed within
a few miles of the newly-dug foundations of

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Mren Cathedral, which one of the greatest
Armenian princes had just begun to construct.

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Although the design of this new church borrowed
from both Persian and Roman architectural

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styles, its dome was likely inspired by Hagia
Sophia.

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It was at that church, in September 629, that
Heraclius celebrated his victory over the

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Persians, the True Cross suspended on gilded
chains over the high altar.

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The following year, during a tour of the territories
recovered from the Persians, Heraclius restored

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the relic to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher
in Jerusalem.

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Back in Armenia, Heraclius’ restoration
of the True Cross was chosen as the subject

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of the relief over the north door of Mren
Cathedral.

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As a sign of his humility before God, the
emperor was shown without crown or scepter.

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The warhorse standing a short distance from
him, however, reminds the viewer of Heraclius’

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campaign to save the Empire, concluded only
a few years before.

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As the cathedral rose, the Roman Empire was
at peace.

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But before construction was completed, and
before Rome or Persia could rebuild their

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militaries, a new threat emerged.

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Fast-moving armies of Arab horsemen, unified
and fired by the new religion of Islam, tore

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through the eastern frontier, and swiftly
conquered Syria, Palestine, and Egypt.

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By the time Mren cathedral was completed,
around 640, the world Heraclius had fought

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so hard to restore was vanishing.

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The Persian Empire would disintegrate within
a decade.

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And although the Roman Empire would survive,
it would emerge from ordeal much smaller and

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profoundly changed.

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In this sense, the years in which Mren Cathedral
was constructed mark the end of the antique

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world, and the beginning of a new and very
different era.

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Through the ensuing centuries, as Arab and
Byzantine raiding parties passed back and

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forth to the south, a town grew up around
Mren cathedral; but then borders shifted,

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and trade routes moved, and the town sank
back into the steppes.

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Six hundred years of abandonment have drawn
the cathedral, brick by brick, down to the

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whispering grass.

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Birds call in the dome, and the sun shines
through the collapsing walls as the wind pushes,

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and the steppe moves before it.

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If you enjoyed this video, please consider
supporting toldinstone on Patreon.

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You might also enjoy my book, Naked Statues,
Fat Gladiators, and War Elephants.

00:13:53.950 --> 00:13:55.569
Thanks for watching.
